Kashmiri embroidery also known as Kashida, has definitely been inspired by the beautiful natural surroundings of Kashmir. What is significant of this style is that the whole pattern is created by using one or two embroidery stitch styles. Wool or cotton is the base cloth used. Most often they are in shades of white or some light shades. At times pastel colors are also used. Kashmiri embroidery is very skillfully executed by way of a single stitch. Sozni embroidery, paper mache embroidery, and ari or hook embroidery are individual styles of Kashmiri embroidery.
Lambanis or Banjaras are a nomadic, gypsy tribe and are well-known for their exquisite traditional hand-embroidery using various stitches and mirror crafts. The embroidery on
the bags, purses and pouches is a fusion of pattern darning, mirror work, cross stitch, and overlaid and quilting stitches with borders of Kangura patchwork appliqué done on a
base fabric which is hand-block-printed in traditional Lambani motifs. A distinctive design element is the use of local mud resistant handloom fabric, and mirrors, shells,
white ornamental trims in addition to Kasuti work, a unique form of needle work, native to North Karnataka.
Bandhini - Tie and dye resist of Gujarat
Art of tie and die is popularly known as Bandhej in the Gujarat region. Jamnagar, Anjar, and Bhuj are the main centers where artists work traditionally on bandhej. The term Bandhini refers to the technique of creating patterned textiles by resisting parts of a fabric by tying knots on it before it is dyed. The Kachchhi bandhini traditionally practiced by the Khatri community is renowned for its extremely fine dots and sophisticated sense of composition. The tying is undertaken by the women and the dying is done by men.
Block printing from Bagh
Bagh, which lends its name to the Bagh prints is a small tribal town in Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh. The design repertoire of Bagh prints covers geometrical and floral compositions and the blocks used for stamping are intricately and deeply carved by block-makers in Pethapur in Gujarat. Bagh layouts are dramatic in the use of black and red alternately on a white background. The black color is prepared with ferrous sulphate mixed with tamarind seed powder and glue which is cooked in water and stored for use. Each sari takes a minimum of three weeks to complete after the design is printed. During
this period it is washed at least three times and sent to the bhatti or oven at least twice.
In an innovative and contemporary twist to Bagh print, the process is now carried out
on bamboo thereby creating beautiful blinds.
A specialty of Kutch in Gujarat are the beautiful shawls woven in wool, tie dyed and embroidered with mirror inserts similar to the motifs which run the length of the textile. These shawls were traditionally made of rough wool. The main colors used in the tie dye of this region are yellow, green, red and back. More recently the weavers have started experimenting with combinations of cottons and silks. They have also a wide range of stoles.
Phulia stoles - West Bengal
Phulia weavers do very fine muslin like weaves in wonderful colors. Phulia, 80 km from
Kolkata in the Shantipur belt of West Bengal's Nadia district, is a renowned center for handwoven fabrics. Beautiful hand-spun saris of the weavers of Phulia vary from tant, tussar silk and Bangalore silk to muga. Their enterprise was remarkable and they're using a range oftechnology, from Bhagalpuri twill to khes type of finish, creating double layers and grafting sequins, to give the six-yard wonder an appeal that's drawing the younger generation.
An NGO in Udaipur, Rajashthan, India, and Sadhna's artisans are skilled in the craft of appliqué and running stitch or tanka embroidery with lots of mirror work and other embellishments. Their pant tops for ladies, quilts, bags and pouches are very contemporary and suit all ages.
An NGO in Gujarat, Kala Raksha produces some of the most exquisitely hand embroidered and patch worked products made in Kutch. Using only natural fibers and
wherever possible natural dyes, the Trust makes a wide range of garments, accessories and home furnishings.
An NGO in Ahmedabad, Gujarat, where ladies make exquisite hand embroidered and embellished with glass, beads and shells.